Mandalorian Armor

I am building a Mandalorian costume so I can join the Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club. I know, I am a NEEERD! If you are reading this then you are too, so shut up nerds! Anyway, I am early in the process but I will post updates.

Tonan SornThis is my character concept.

IMG_2913I am using 1/2 inch sintra PVC foam board. You need to be patient with a box cutter or have a vertical band saw for this thickness. Curves are damn near impossible. I am using a similar vest to this one to attach the armor, so I used this dummy and vest to shape the armor. I heated the pieces with a heat gun and shaped them to the parts of the vest where they will be attached. For the shoulders, I shaped them to a can that is roughly the same curve as my shoulder.

IMG_2910I 3D printed some Mythosaur diamonds and carved out the shape in the shoulders so I can inlay them. It’s all in the details.

IMG_2911I did not design the 3D print. You can get them in Just search Mandalorian. There is all kinds of cool Mandalorian stuff on there. Props to whomever made the diamonds.

IMG_2923So a tactical vest can’t be approved for membership unless completely covered in armor or heavily modified. Luckily my Brother in law is a huge nerd and had a mando vest made by one of the memebers a while ago. He decided not to build his suit and gave me his vest. So this is the vest I will be attaching my armor to.

IMG_2922I am using a Jango Fett 2 piece helmet. If you get a quality resin helmet it will most likely be one piece. This helmet is cheap and flimsy so modification is needed. I glued it together from the inside for more stability and used bondo to cover the seams where the pieces snap together. Apparently there is an easier way to do this on the MMCC website. I recommend just spending the money on a quality helmet. This one takes a lot of work and even though it is only about 40 bucks, by the time you buy supplies and take time modifying it, you might as well have spent a little more and saved trouble.

IMG_2924I started painting and forgot to add some facial detail from my concept. I had to sand down the front and glue on these Sintra strips I shaped for the face.

IMG_2925I broke my original view finder trying to make it more interesting so I 3D printed a new one. Ended up being better because it has more detail and I can now removed the view finder from the helmet whenever I need to. This is a Jodo Kast view finder from The stalk is also from but it is a separate part.

I know this is a little all over the place. I am sort of jumping around to different parts when I have the time.

IMG_2926Next I am going to save a little Sintra and make my gauntlets out of clorox toil cleaner holders we have not in use at work.

IMG_2930A success so far. Hopefully I can I can do the same for the other arm. Most guys make a clam shell style gauntlet with two pieces that can shut with a piano hinge but I wanted to do something a little different.

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My Shoulder armor is finished. Did a little weathering and battle damage paint work.

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Not quite done with the helmet but it is coming along nicely. Did some weathering but I plan to do more plus battle damage. I am also going to paint some Mandalorian letters on the side.

IMG_2949 2I 3D printed some knee armor from thingiverse. The guy who made it must have large knees. I had to size them down a bit in program. He designed these well. They come with a removable strap loop for some elastic straps in the back of them. I had to sand the hell out of these things to get a smoother finish. I will paint these soon.

IMG_0080Almost done with the gauntlets here. I am glad I was able to replicate what I did with the first one. I added some sintra pieces for an armor plated look.

FullSizeRenderI finally attached my armor pieces to my vest. I used stick on velcro. The velcro will not stay glued to the duck cloth and since I can’t sew I used rivets to permanently attach it. The stick on velcro is useful, especially when you have no one to help put the armor on. I had to eye ball it while I stuck it on looking in the mirror. I am not particularly pleased with the collar armor. I might make a new one or shape this one better.

IMG_0086Made a new collar plate. This one is not warped and matches the edges of the two chest armor pieces. I will post a pic of the vest attachments later. I keep forgetting.

IMG_0104Finally found some boots to use for my suit. I did not want to build shin armor, so I went with a tall boot instead. Boot requirements are no logos, laces or zippers. They all must be hidden from view and if there is a zipper they must be on the inside of the cafe which these boots have. Now these are actually women’s boots but they comply with rules, are light weight, comfortable and were on sale. Plus they look pretty good when you have a suit of battle armor on. It’s surprisingly difficult to find men’s boots that comply with rules, that don’t cost an arm and a leg.

FullSizeRender(1)All of it is almost ready. Just need to put on a flat coat and craft the cape and loin cloth.


Alright so I finally found a good cloth to make the cape and loin cloth. I needed something that matched the color and was heavier than just cotton. I found a nice red Rave Canvas that matches. Before we do some cloth work… Lets do some magnet work. In the photo above is my 3D Printed Clone Trooper Blaster. A lot of Mandalorians use the Clone Blaster as their weapon so I wanted to set mine apart a bit. I thought it would be cool to put a muzzle on the end but I did not want to attach it permanently. I wanted to be able to holster it and not have a long barrel sticking out. So I got some mini super magnets.

IMG_0147I glued one into the tip of the blaster and the other inside the bnc connector of the aluminum tube. I glued a bushing into it so when it connects to the other one, it holds it in place, making it more stable.

IMG_0146It worked out well. It holds strong and does not move when you shake the blaster. After having success with that I moved on to figuring out how I was going to attach my cape to my collar plate. I had though I was just going to use velcro but then I though it might be cool to use broaches instead. I thought about carving some out of sintra but then I thought… I have a 3D printer and magnets, so why waste time hand carving.

IMG_0151So I designed some simple two piece broaches that can be glued to the cape and attached to the collar plate with magnets.

IMG_0153The cloth can be sandwiched between the two pieces, held in place by the dowels that fit into the holes and glued together.

IMG_0154This is the underside of the plate. I designed dowels that will slide into corresponding holes on the collar plate and inserted magnets that will connect to magnets on the plate.

IMG_0158This is the corresponding connection in the collar. A bit sloppy due to gluing in one of the magnets backward. Oops. Shit happens.

IMG_0156Here is what they look like connected. Hopefully when I finish the cape and attach it, it will work like I have imagined it will.

IMG_0175IMG_0176IMG_0178IMG_0177Well it’s been a while since I took the full suit photos. People made some suggestions on changes before I submit and I have been working on them. I am having a new vest made because the one I have is does not comply. It’s a bit baggy and you can see the zipper in the back.

So while I have been waiting for that I decided to make some weapons. I see a lot of mandos carrying the Kal Dagger Which looks like the pic below.

Kal_DaggerMost people make them out of foam or Sintra. I decided to make mine out of flat bar aluminum.

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Don’t worry it’s not sharp.

Somebody made a comment on my clone blaster having obvious 3D print lines and it might not pass for quality. I just decided to make a new blaster all together. Below are some parts from three different airsoft guns I had in a box.

IMG_1028So I took all these parts and cut, drilled, glued, modded and bondod the hell out of them to make what you see below.

IMG_1104I think it turned out pretty damn good.

Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.50.29 AMNew color scheme and flak vest.

Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.51.28 AMNew sintra knee armor and updated shoulders with dual layer plates.

Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.50.50 AM Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.50.14 AM IMG_2560 IMG_2505 IMG_2502 IMG_2501Entirely new sintra gauntlets that close magnetically. Making those were not fun.

Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.51.41 AM Screen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.51.49 AMScreen Shot 2019-03-11 at 9.51.03 AMEntirely new sintra, Jango style back plate. Also, not fun to make.

IMG_2574 IMG_2572 IMG_2571 IMG_2569Helmet repaint and mandalorian letters added. Better damage as well.

Just so everyone knows… This will never be finished.

3D Printing

Hey everyone. I have some pretty exciting news for those who have followed my site over the years. My company has opened a 3D Printing division and I have been put in charge of it. Now I get to make cool stuff for people for a living. We have an industrial printer with a 14x16x14 build envelope. It prints with durable FDM thermoplastics.

Now I won’t lie to you. It is not cheap to print on but it is high quality. If you need any nerdy stuff printed like props, costume pieces, helmets, models, you can come to me. If you want it nice and smooth, you will have to do your own surface finishing and painting. But hey, that’s the fun part for you guys right?

Check out our website. We have a video of the printer in action. We have info about all of our thermoplastics. You can upload your STL file and get a quote from me quickly.

Fallout Inspired Vault-Tec Medical Box

I still haven’t finished the Skyrim Dagger. It is a ton of work and mess. One of these days I will but in the meantime I have something for you nerds.

IMG_2121If you like Skyrim you probably like Fallout and if you are like me, you will see things sometimes and go, “That totally looks like something from Fallout.”

IMG_2109I was at work and saw this old spill control kit upstairs that we haven’t used in decades. I thought to myself, “I could turn this into something inspired by Fallout to put in my nerd office (which I will have to take pictures of and show you guys later).” All my wife thought was “Great, more clutter.” But when you are a nerd and a collector, clutter is life.

So I am at work, I have none of my tools, paint, anything. How am I gonna do this? What I did have was vinyl sticker paper for my printer. So all I had to do was a little photoshop and there would be no mess. Sweet.

IMG_2110So I got to shoppin. I grabbed some elements from google images. A good Vault-Tec logo, and a red medical cross in high res.



I realized that the spill box had an off white cream color to it due to years of fading. So I took a picture (below) that best showed the color and matched it in photoshop as best I could.

FullSizeRenderI measured the door, creating the exact size in Photoshop. I added the elements together on the matched color canvas. Used fonts close to the Vault-Tec ones. Here we have it.

Screen Shot 2016-01-28 at 9.42.59 AMThe image was too wide to fit onto one sheet of standard sized paper so I split it in two.

Right Side Paper Left Side PaperThe paper I was using was very heavy so I set my printer on the heaviest it could do and printed them on full page. I got a metal ruler and a box cutter and cut the stickers out. I taped the two stickers together using masking tape because it pulls away easier than any other tape as to not tear or pull up color.

IMG_2115At this stage I realized that you would be able to see the green letters on the box through the stickers so I did have to paint some. I found some super old white paint in storage and wiped it over the letters with a towel because I had no brush. 2 coats to cover it completely.

IMG_2113I placed the sticker carefully where I wanted it and taped one side down to the box so it would not move.

IMG_2118I pulled the side I wanted to stick down first up and pealed the backing away. Using a flat object I scraped from the middle out to avoid bubbles. Sorry I don’t have pictures of that. It’s hard to take them when you need both hands. Repeated with the other side.

IMG_2119Apart from putting the lock back in, we are done and it cost zero dollaz.

IMG_2120In this light you can kind of tell a slight color difference but I think it turned out pretty damn well for not making a mess and not spending a dime. If you are wondering, I totally got permission to take this box and goof around on work time making it.





Hey Everyone!

I apologize for the lack of updates. I know some of you were excited to see how the dagger came out. Unfortunately I haven’t had time to work on it and I am not sure when I will get the chance to finish it simply because life has gotten busier for me, which is good. Sadly that means it will be a while before the dagger is finished because I still have a lot of work to do on it. I might not post for a while but the site will always be here. In the future, if you remember, check back and maybe some new stuff will be up. Stay inspired and never stop creating.

Skyrim Steel Dagger Progress

Well I promised an update with photos if things were moving slow, so here they are. It is pretty self explanatory, so I am going to save all of the build details for the final piece.DSC_0154

DSC_0158DSC_0156DSC_0157DSC_0160DSC_0159DSC_0161DSC_0169DSC_0170DSC_0163DSC_0165So now all that is left is some shaping, sanding, gluing and priming to finish the model and its off to the really expensive part… Molding and casting. Thanks for being patient.


Skyrim Steel Dagger Update

Dagger Model

So, I am still working on the Skyrim Steel Dagger. Its been slow because of the holidays, my new big boy job, and people visiting but it will get done soon. I have all the parts made, it just needs to be assembled, patched with some bondo, sanded and primed. Then of course make a mold and cast the final product. Its going to be a while longer but for those of you who have been looking forward to it, just keep checking back and I will start doing some build progress updates since I’m moving slower than usual.

Skyrim Weapon Rack

DSC_0153If you recognize this thing, you probably play Skyrim to much. This is a weapon rack that can be found in most interior locations in the video game, Elder Scrolls: Skyrim. This was sort of a side project I decided to do because I am waiting on a shipment of materials to make a steel dagger from Skyrim with. I thought to myself, when the dagger is built it would be cool to display it. What better way to display a Skyrim dagger than with a wall mounted weapon rack from the actual game?

72850_screenshots_2012-03-07_00009So I started with this pic I grabbed from the internet and basically traced it poorly in Photoshop to get this.

Skyrim Weapon PlaqueNow, stop laughing so I can finish the post. Anyway, I printed this out onto two sheets of paper and taped them together to make a stencil.

DSC_0124By now, if you are a die hard Skyrim player, you have probably realized that this rack is not to scale. Correct, I didn’t want to make a giant, heavy, expensive one that could hold a great sword. However, if you wanted to, you totally could.

DSC_0122So I made a card stock version that was better for tracing and traced it on the backside of the wood I was using. Then I hand cut it out with a Dremel.

DSC_0125After some sanding and staining I got this.

DSC_0126I wasn’t sure how to create the metal frame around the edge so I decided to try experimenting with clay, which I have never used before.

DSC_0127This is self hardening clay that you don’t need to bake. The plan was to shape it, let it dry and since it is black clay I could just paint it with acrylic silver to get the metal affect. A horrible plan indeed.

DSC_0129I rolled it and shaped it to the best of my ability and it looked pretty good.

DSC_0131Unfortunately this clay’s package lied when it said minimal shrinkage. It shrank severely and cracked into a few pieces as well. Another thing about clay is that it is heavy and dirty, so I decided to use the pieces to make a mold and cast plastic from (also a first for me).

The stuff below is Smooth-On OOMOO 30. It is a medium grade silicone mold compound. Its an equal parts mix with a 6 hour cure time.

DSC_0136Now the only reason I actually knew how to do this is by taking a class on casting and molding and watching tutorials online. If you want to do this you should study up because it is expensive and very easy to screw up if you don’t know the basics. A good source of info is They have tons of tutorials on various products that are extremely helpful.

DSC_0134I have the silicone so I needed the plastic. I chose Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 305 because it was simply in stock at the store. Also an equal parts mix, Its light weight, durable, and cures in 30 minutes. The down side is that it turns bright white but paint can fix that. Next I needed a mold box.

DSC_0132There is a billion ways to make a mold box but a cheap, one time way is this. I traced a box around the broken pieces onto some foam board and glued foam board walls around it. In order to make sure no silicone escapes you have to really hot glue the hell out of it. I used tape around it just for some reinforcement. Next I glued the pieces to the base of the box,mixed and poured the silicone.

DSC_0133By some miracle the silicone stayed in but I hit a bit of a snag. I did not have enough silicone to cover the pieces and you need at least a half inch layer over the top. The store ran out of OOMOO 30 so I took and gamble and used 25 which is a weaker silicone but it was a one time mold so I wasn’t worrying about tearing it.

DSC_0138This is what I got. You can see two colors because OOMOO 30 is purple and 25 is teal blue. It is dirty because I did not spray sealer on the clay. Since clay is porous it will stick to the silicone. Not a huge deal it just needed cleaning.

DSC_0142After cleaning I mixed and poured the resin.

DSC_014530 minutes later it was bright white and hard as a rock which meant I could de-mold it.

DSC_0146To my surprise it turned out perfectly. Now all I needed to do was a little gluing, sanding and painting.

DSC_0148Since the clay did shrink before molding I re-shaped the wood to fit the frame and then screwed it on from the back with wood screws. The ring in the middle was installed with super glue.

There you have it. Come back in a couple of weeks or so for an update on the Skyrim steel dagger. As always, questions and comments are welcome. Use the contact page or comment form. As always… shut up nerds!





“Pipboy 1000” Fallout Inspired Arm Bracer


I’m jokingly calling this device the Pipboy 1000 because it seems like an earlier model of the Pipboy 3000 from the Fallout 3 video game. I have always wanted to do make a Pipboy 3000 but it has been done so many times and I just felt like doing something with my own spin on it.

This probably one of the more in depth builds that I have done. Everything is nearly from scratch and if you are interested in it, the entire build process is further down after the final product photos.



DSC_0087DSC_0086DSC_0084Equipped with some extra perks.



DSC_0072DSC_0074DSC_0103 copyDSC_0109DSC_0112 copy

I took the liberty of posting a video of the bracer so you can see and hear the display.

For the video graphic, rather than try and make one myself which would be a disaster or ask my VFX buddy to take time out of his busy day to make one for me, I just bought some that looked “Fallout-ish”. You can get the exact ones here and here from for a fairly decent price. From there I just edited them together with some distortion and sound effects from Soundtrack Pro and made a 5 minute looping video.

The Build:

So I guess we will start with the internals. I didn’t want to use an iPod or my phone for the screen like a lot of people do. So I went cheap mp3 player with a touch screen shopping and came up with this.
DSC_0025I got this cheap piece of garbage on Amazon for about 40 bucks. The touchscreen is extremely finicky but it does the job. Next is the speaker and cable.

DSC_0007The speaker is just a cheap battery operated portable one from radio shack. To connect the two I needed a female to male adapter cable. I ended up needing a different one than the one in the photo, do to a space issue on the bracer. Basically, it was the same cable but with a right angle male head.

So now that I had what I was installing, I needed to figure out how I was going to install it. For this particular project I wanted to use everything as is and keep them in tact so I could still access batteries and memory cards and what not.

DSC_0036So I traced out the dimensions of the player onto some card stock and glued them together to make the cover for the screen and the speaker.  Once they were glued together I coated them in resin (the stuff below).

DSC_0009This kind of resin is a great because it doesn’t have a strong smell or vapor that will stink up your house or suffocate you to death. Its equal parts filler and hardener and it dries almost clear with a yellow hue. For those of you who do not know what resin is, its basically glue that turns into hard plastic. So coating the card stock with it turns the card stock into a nice, hard shell casing for the screen. Once painted it looked like this.

DSC_0037To get the riveted effect I glued on some card stock that I punched out with my leather hole puncher.


Lets talk about paint real quick. If you have seen my work before you probably know that I mostly hand paint with acrylic and then seal it with a clear coat spray. I particularly like to hand paint things I want to look metal because the brush strokes create a warn, scratched, or “brushed steel” look. To get an old, beat up, metallic look I usually have a black base and then brush with the metallic color. You don’t want to completely cover the black coat. You want to have just enough showing through that it gives it that older, forged metal look. To get the rust effect I mix the two paints below and lightly stipple the areas I want to looks rusted. In this case the rivets and welded looking spots.

DSC_0040To cover the cable I used some of this stuff. This is 1/2 inch split loom tubing for covering electrical wire. Like anything awesome, this can be found here on amazon and you can get 100 feet for 13 bucks.

DSC_0041I cut it to the length of the wire and cut out a space for the male connecter to set in so the top was flush and then I hot glued it and painted it.

DSC_0042The Blade:

Half way through the project I decided that it would be badass to have a giant bayonet style blade sticking out of the side of the bracer.

I didn’t have any fancy PVC foam board so I used regular 1/2 inch Elmer’s Foam board that you make science projects with. Unfortunately when you go the cheap route it is harder to work with but it can be done.

DSC_0003So I cut out the shape I wanted, carved an edge and sanded it to make it smooth and sharp. I also attached a piece to the back of the blade so it could slide into the connector on the bracer.

DSC_0006I then brushed it with resin. I also added a bit of black paint to the resin so I could have a durable dark base since the blade will probably take some damage, if it gets scuffed you wont get a white scratch. However, if you don’t have the proper resin color it jeopardizes the integrity of the resin so I just added another coat and I was good. Btw, if you ever use resin in a project, stock up on cheap brushed because they can only be used once.

DSC_0010After some sanding and painting I added some leather lace to make it pretty.

DSC_0035The bayonet connector:

I basically built a box out of quarter inch foam board around the blades connector piece and left one end open so the blade could slide in.

DSC_0021Paint, resin and rivets of course. Simple.


Mini Cross Bow:

Halfway through making the blade I thought to myself, there should be a cross bow you can put on this. Why not? I found this little cross bow toy at a board game store at the mall for 7 bucks.

I shot some darts with it at my window. It is surprisingly powerful and accurate.

DSC_0023Anyway, I added some paint and hot glued another bayonet connector to it. The bow also came with a blue string so I tried to dye it black and failed miserably. I ended up replacing it with a black hair tie I got at walgreens.


So what does a cross bow that is suppose to look real need? You said it! Real looking arrows which we can make out of aluminum sheets and tubing like so.

DSC_0027I was able to cut the arrows out with some heavy duty scissors. I then took my Dremel and ground out a slit in the tops of the tubes so the arrow head could slide in. Then I lightly hammered where the tube meets the arrow head to clamp it shut and super glued it.  If you are wondering if I tried shooting one of these out of the bow you would be correct. However, they just kind of fall out and almost stab peoples feet.

DSC_0028After everything was done I was able attach all the pieces by cutting holes in the leather and hot gluing it from the back. I added the tabs for reinforcement because well, its just a good idea.

DSC_0044DSC_0052So as you can see, the behind the scenes of the bracer is pretty ugly so I covered it up with some left over brown fabric. This is also a good idea so you don’t have all that jagged stuff stabbing your arm.

DSC_0051Once I got the shape I used liquid stitch to fold and glue the edges back.

DSC_0056So it looks like this.

DSC_0057Now I needed to attach it so I just liquid stitched some Velcro the bracer and the inlay. I was pretty generous with the liquid stitch as to not rip off the Velcro when I removed the inlay.



Final Touches:

I attached the arrows with antique brass rapid rivets. to do this you would need rivets,  a rivet setter, a plastic/wood hammer and preferably a leather hole punch . For all of my leather needs I use Tandy Leather Factory.

The little metal disk on the right is a decorative concho. It looked like a vent or some sort of sensor so I thought it would be a nice touch of detail.

DSC_0117Now that I had everything built I needed to figure out how to strap it to my arm. I didn’t want to use snaps or Velcro so I just did it old school with 3 straps, strap slides, and button studs.  To fasten the straps to the bracer I used regular rivets from the hardware store because they are durable and much easier to use.

DSC_0118Dirty it up:

Now that it looks all fancy I decided to knock it down a notch by stippling black shoe polish all over it with a brush. This gives it a nice, dirty, wasteland final touch.

DSC_0046DSC_0049Just to touch on some things I missed if people are interested. The metal screen covering the speaker is another piece of aluminum sheet that I sanded and drilled holes in. I also took leather lace and glued it around where the leather bracer meets the covers for a beveled and more layered look.

Well that is it. Any questions or comments just email or comment below. I hoped you enjoyed this absurdly long build and if you didn’t, well, shut up nerds.

Fallout Pipboy Inspired Project Coming Soon!

Just wanted to give an update. Christmas has slowed down production a bit but I am working on a Fallout Pipboy inspired arm bracer device. I say “inspired” because the Pipboy has been done a billion times but I love the idea of it and wanted to create an original, from scratch (well nearly) take on it. So check back hopefully in a week or so for some cool pics and a nice break down of the build.

Steampunk Nerf Barrel Break Shotgun

I was at Toys R Us because I am a giant child and I can’t help but check out the Nerf guns when I saw the Nerf Barrel Break.

I thought to myself, I haven’t modded a Nerf gun in a while and a futuristic double barreled shotgun just seemed to cool pass up.

I reinstalled the bullet rack on the side because I wanted to put the compressor on the tac rail.

I made six brass buckshot type bullets and two “explosive” amber liquid bullets just for fun.

The brass bullets are made out of an old brass clocks legs and hardware. The liquid bullets are vinyl tubing capped at both ends with 3/8 brass flare nuts. The liquid is actually watered down, Tangerine Orange Mio water flavor.

You can find all of the compressor pieces in the plumbing section of any hardware store. Its made with 1inch copper pipe cut to the length of the rail, 1inch caps, 3/8inch copper Tee fixed to the back, a soft copper coil running from the Tee to the steam gauge and the gun, copper pipe hangers connecting it to the tac rail hardware, and a brass valve handle screwed into the front.

Lets talk about steam gauges. I searched high and low for a vintage steam gauge or any sort of steam gauge looking object I could make look like one and I came up empty. Then I found this build to help me out. Basically the build is about taking a brass closet door handle thing below.

You find a picture of the style indicator dial you want online or use the guys in the other build and print it out. I wanted to use a real indicator needle so I just decided to make my own dial as well.  I am providing a plain one and the one I used in my project down below if you feel like using mine.

After I got all of the parts together I got to work.

I actually used the plastic from the package for the glass cover. After I added the paper dial, gear, and clock hand, I glued the plastic to the front. Since the package comes with two of those brass door things, I cut the brass ring off of the front of the other one with a Dremel and glued it on front if the plastic to have a nice beveled edge around the plastic cover. From there I just wrapped the outside, under the edge in some leather to give the finished dial a beefier look.

For the final touch I cut out a leather grip for the handle instead of just wrapping the handle in leather lace or something like that.

That concludes my barrel break build. I hope you enjoyed it and if you have any questions or would like more details, comment or shoot me an email. Otherwise, shut up nerds.